Abhijata and Guruji

Abhi’s classes are wonderful. I wish we had more classes with her. She has the fiery nature, passion, clear instruction, and humor of her grandfather.

When I arrived in Pune, she was still on her honeymoon and went directly to China with Guruji. So, I’ve had only two classes with her.

During the Saturday morning women’s class she made us work on the proper action in the shoulders and legs in Adho mukha svanasana. She wanted us to become aware of action of the knees. Both sides of the knee have to move back. In all of us, one side of the knee has a tendency to either move more forward or back. As students we have to look and create the appropriate action. She had us press the base of the palms into the floor, lift the fingers and take the inner groins back. I found this action very helpful. She had us take the heels up and stretch the outer edge of the feet straight back (lengthening the outer foot) and slowly take the heels down. This action engages the thighs and moves them back.

In Prasarita padottanasana she had us take the outer bone of the feet and press them down strongly so the inner arch would lift. Then she asked us to roll the inner groins back. We used our hands to help get this action of the groins. This encourages the torso to release downward.

In Sirsasana, I moved toward the wall near Guruji. Sirsasana has always been my nemesis and I knew being near Guruji would get me feedback. He said something to the effect of, “Fix her.”

I know in Sirsasana my floating ribs protrude forward and my pubis drops. However, I can’t seem to fix it without thrusting my thighs forward. Two assistants are at my side, one adjusting my ribs and the other adjusting my legs. I knew what Guruji wanted me to do but my body just couldn’t make the connection.

Today in the women’s class again Abhi worked on the actions in Adho mukha svanasana taking the inner groin back but also finding which side is dull. What side is more forward, which eye is more forward, what armpit is more forward….I don’t know. Does everyone else feel that inaction in their body? I struggle to see these connections and to feel them in my body. Sometimes I do fleetingly, sometimes I don’t.

Guruji was in a fiery mood. He said to the class, “You listen but then you do what you want! In China they listen and then they do! Here I am ashamed!”

I understand his frustration. He said our brains get in the way of our action and we need to put our brain in our back pockets.

He became fiery again when we were working on Prasarita padottanasana. Abhi used an analogy. She told us our tailbone is the tail of a plane and our head and shoulders are the front of the plane. When a plane takes off the tail stays down and the front lifts. He wants us to find this action in this pose. “Keep the tailbone down and move the lower flesh of the buttocks straight back, bend the arms and bring the shoulders forward to lengthen the latissimus dorsi muscles, lift the head and straighten the arms.”

He yelled, “Why don’t you do this! If you want to do what you want, why don’t you stay home? Why do you come to Pune? So you can say you have been to Pune?”

“Again!”

Abhi instructs us again and I start to feel the action.

“How is it now?” He asks Abhi.

“It is better.” She says.

Again I play with this action to find the connection he is looking for – it’s coming.

Now it is time for Sirsasana and I know Guruji is in a fiery mood and consider not going to my spot near him. But I came here to learn, so up I go.

I hear him yell for an assistant to adjust a student in the middle of the room. The student falters and he yells, “You have no sense of direction. Go to the wall.”

Now his focus is on me. “You with your ego go with that student. Raya, show them what to do.”

Raya takes us to a square column and places his hands on either side of the column with the base of his palms touching and the forearms in Sirsasana position.

sirsasana-at-a-columnHe tells me to do this and to come up with one leg at a time. He instructs me to bring the inner ankles to either side of the column. Then instructs me to take the entire spine onto the pointed edge of the column.

WOW. How different is that! So this is what Sirsasana is supposed to feel like!

Guruji is not done with me yet. “Her shoulders are dropping.” Press the wrists down, Raya instructs, and lift the shoulders.

This action was a little more difficult for me to access but now I know what I need to do to improve! It was an enlightening instruction.

Some people are offended by Guruji’s harsh words but I just embrace them, work on the connections he is asking us to make, and use them to grow in my practice.

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Pu La Deshpande Park another treasure discovered in Pune, India

My geocaching interest took me to this beautiful Japanese Botanical garden in Pune.

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My last adventure

I got back from class and I see Vikram waiting in the living room with my friend Lauren.

Plans have changed. We must leave now.
Okay
There are 30,000 pilgrims coming through Pune and the police will be closing all the roads. If we don’t leave now, we won’t be able to leave.
Okay
Oh, we are going to my house; my wife is making us lunch.
Cool.

We get to Vikram’s house. I am so glad Lauren is with me because she has the ‘gift of gab’ (as my mom used to say) and I on the otherhand have no idea what to say! His family is so wonderful and his wife is an incredible cook. One thing I noticed in India is everyone really wants to continue to feed you long after you have become full. I had several servings of everything!

Lauren stays behind to wait for her driver to take her to the airport and I continue on my way to Diveagar. The scenery is incredible and Vikram stops many times for me to take photos.

When I asked Vikram to plan this trip, I asked to visit a non-commercial, rural area of the Konkan coast. The only criterion I gave him was I needed my own bathroom. In retrospect, I should have asked for a shower, soap and towels. However, after the initial mini-jolt of surprise realizing I had just a bucket and a faucet for my bathing facilities, I rolled with it.

The owners made an amazing fresh-caught fish and prawn dinner. It has taken some getting used to eating properly in India. Not using my left hand has proved most problematic (being a south-paw) and using chapati as a scoop to pick up food takes some practice. In more rural areas you eat your rice with your fingers. How is it possible that everyone around me stays neat without using utensils and I look like most two year olds after a meal?

Unlike the other areas I visited, most people are not happy to see a foreigner in town. They want the extra income of tourists because their crops can only sustain them for 4 to 6 months during the year, but they don’t want this quiet village to become another Goa.

Vikram showed me one of the nearby beaches. I asked him if the water was calm and he said, “Yes, yes, very calm.” So when I got to the beach and saw six foot waves somehow I wasn’t surprised. Since I wasn’t sure of the bathing suit protocol in India, I took off by myself as far away from others as I could get and jumped in. I can’t say it was swimming exactly, more like jumping up in the air every 30 seconds to avoid being knocked down by the large waves. The water was incredibly warm and the mountains surrounding the beach were beautiful.

When I came back from my swim Vikram said. “I saw you go under. I thought you were gone.”
I laughed.

The next morning I got up very early and went off by myself to explore the town and return to the beach. It was so peaceful. No car noises or horns, the air was fresh from the recent rains, everything was green.

I walked on the beach for a while then some men whistled to get my attention. When I turned around, they waved me over and made a hand signal for a camera. I didn’t really know what they wanted but when I got over to them they were pointing to something on the ground. It was a 3 foot (maybe larger) venomous sea snake. It had recently eaten a meal and was digesting it on edge of the shore.

I think the men expected me to scream, because they seemed very surprised when I started to take photos and were horrified when I got within a couple of feet of it. They were trying to tell me it was poisonous (this I already knew so I was being cautious). I would have loved to get a photo of me holding it, (they have very small fangs) but my brain kept me from doing anything too stupid and I was content to leave it on the ground to digest its food.

Later that morning Vikram took me to another beach and we found an unfortunate sea turtle. A predator, possibly a shark, took both its front flippers. Although the wounds had healed, the turtle had been unable to swim fast enough to catch fish and was slowly starving to death. It was so thin it was heartbreaking but there was nothing I could do to help it.

We drove further down the beach and Vikram hung out while I enjoyed the waves some more and watched the bald eagles fly overhead.

It was my last adventure in India and my mind is turning toward my return trip home. It’s been an amazing ride in this beautiful country and I hope to return in the not too distant future.


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Note to self

Not all accommodations in India provide soap, towels, or showers. This is fine if you are prepared for it 🙂

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Look what I found on the beach in India

Very few people can say they have seen one of these 🙂

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Mystery fruit

I went to the supermarket yesterday (side-note: supermarket in India is a relative term) and saw these beautiful fruits. At least they looked like fruit. I took them back to the apartment, washed one and ate it. Not so tasty. So, I coaxed my friend Lauren into trying it; she’s not fond of it either.

I take one to the Institute and asked Pandu (It took three weeks, but he and I are good buddies now). He looks at it and says, “This is a date. It’s not ripe. Don’t eat it.”

Too late I say…
He smiles.

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Diveagar

My accommodations in a remote village of the Konkan Coast are not for the faint of heart….I have a bucket and a faucet, that’s a plus.

My accommodations in Nasik were ‘very’ deluxe in comparison.

Oh and there is a spider the size of a bike helmut running around inside my room…

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Geetaji – love her!

I love the way she teaches, I love her grouchy comments, and I especially love her humor….I am going to miss her classes….

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Ellora

After my trip to the fort I arrived at the Kailas Hotel and enjoyed lovely accommodations. The stone cottage with a view of the caves, a relaxing swing, a comfortable outdoor table and chairs, air conditioning, hot water, and clean sheets! It was just what I needed.

The langur monkeys here are beautiful. They’re much, much bigger than the macaques I saw during my stay in Matheran. When the adults stand upright, they come close to being eye-level with you. Unlike the macaques, they prefer to run from you rather than steal your food.

I had a difficult time taking good photos of them since they have coal-black faces and dark eyes. There were dozens on the grounds of the hotel and I enjoyed spending some of my leisure time just watching them.

In the morning I got up early, had Indian style French toast – not bad – and set out alone to explore the Ellora caves. There weren’t too many people – so other than the vendors incessantly trying to sell me things, it was pretty quiet.

When my friend Lauren arrived that afternoon, Vikram, Lauren and I set off to see the caves again. Lauren and Vikram went to caves 1-16. I started off in the opposite direction to view other caves I hadn’t seen during my morning visit. We made plans to meet back at Kailasa Temple (#16) in an hour.

At this time of day the caves were swarming with people and I became the main attraction, again. Each cave I went to, people would ask if they could take a photo with me. The people watching, seeing that I was amenable to the idea, would come over and ask if I would take a photo with them. Then lines form and I have to politely break away to continue to the next cave where the cycle would begin again.

I finally make my way back to the Kailasa Temple and don’t see Vikram and Lauren. While I am waiting, I decide to explore areas of this beautiful temple I missed earlier. For a while I am able to avoid the photo-takers until I climbed the upper level of the temple where I could sit and view the courtyard scanning for Lauren and Vikram. Sitting down encouraged people to ask for more photos and soon I had large families of people posing to take photos with me. Unknown to me, Lauren and Vikram were laughing, enjoying the show from below.

Vikram left and told us he would meet us with the car at Cave 29. So, Lauren and I set off to see the caves along the way. There was a beautiful long narrow ledge walkway with a waterfall and a pond below. There was a blockade preventing people from entering the walkway. I looked around to determine if there was a ‘danger’ reason for the blockade. When I didn’t see one, I decided to climb over and continue on to the remaining caves. Lauren was reluctant to do this, but I talked her into it. How else were we going to meet our driver?

We continue on this beautiful path, view the smaller temples along the way, and eventually come to Cave 29. The problem is this entrance is blocked too! No problem, I’ll just climb over this one too…..until the large guard looming overhead has a problem with this..…

He told us that we (of course) weren’t supposed to cross the blockades, and told me there’s a fine for ignoring the large “No Entry” signs. The sign is in both Marathi and English, so no excuses for me.

After using my ‘naïve, I’m sorry, please let me in, I won’t break anymore rules’ voice he let us through. In the meantime, Vikram recognizes my voice, comes over, looks down, slightly shakes his head and smiles. I wonder if he thinks all Americans are crazy, or just me.

Ellora Caves – Another must see while in India!

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Jamuns

A delicious purple, healthy tree fruit in India…except when you bite into one with bugs…….

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